Edition 15

March 2024

A fashion week in Copenhagen

Edition 15 is dedicated to my experience of Copenhagen Fashion Week. So grateful that I got to experience Fashion week and, furthermore, attend a show together with Martina Bonnier, a memory for life. Additionally, the fact that my text was published in Vogue Scandinavia!? It’s something I still can't believe.

I love Copenhagen and for me, it's probably impossible to be there without eating smørrebrød and exploring the secondhand and vintage selection. I share my most favorite shops and more, hope you like it.

Johanna Karlqvist, Editor

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When I mentioned that I was going to the chpfw, the initial reaction was a surprised "what?!", then I've got the question "What are you going to wear?" It was also among the first questions I asked myself. The only thing I knew was that I wanted it to be secondhand and something I felt comfortable in. A gray suit popped into my head, a fully gray look.

So, I ordered some different suits and vests from Sellpy. I don't know what it is about vests, but I like them. And the good thing about Sellpy is that you can return items.

Luckily I found the one: pinstriped, slightly flared trousers with a slit. Unfortunately, the sleeves of the blazer were a bit too long, so I decided to have them adjusted by a tailor. I went to Kungsskräddarna in Göteborg, I can really recommend that place. The tailor was super professional and he told me that all clothes should be tailored to fit the individual, and I can agree; it looks so much better that way. But of course, you need to pay accordingly.

The bag I carried is a vintage Prada model, Re-Nylon Tote in black, which I found at the Archiva store on Brick Lane Street in London last year. Read the love story of me and vintage Prada in Edition 2 The city of London.

The ring I wore holds great sentimental value; it's special to me as it belonged to my grandmother. It has the shape of Yin and Yang, the two complementary forces. I don't know how she got it or if she bought it herself; perhaps it symbolized her and my grandfather's relationship in some way.

Either way, my grandmother got to be a part of this experience, something I know she would have loved.

Front row experience at CPHFW

Text By Johanna Karlqvist published in Vogue scandinavia

I've always wanted to attend a fashion show. That I would get to do that together with Martina Bonnier, editor-in-chief for Vogue Scandinavia is something I never dared to dream about.

Happy and excited – and a little nervous – I patiently wait by the black Mercedes with the Vogue Scandinavia logo outside the Opera House in Copenhagen where we have agreed to meet. Suddenly, I spot Martina and Rebecka, who works as Martina's executive assistant and as a fashion producer for the magazine.

“Now, we're curious, can you share a bit about yourself?” Martina asks me right after we jump into the backseat of the car. Of course, I want to make a good impression on the editor-in-chief, and here I am with that opportunity.

Throughout the drive I ask a lot about how they work with sustainability and Martina's perspective on her influence in the fashion industry.

She explains to me how Vogue is a platform and much more than just a physical magazine, and how the fashion industry is the world's third-largest manufacturing sector. The car ride goes quickly as we drive through the sunny streets of Copenhagen.

We eagerly walk into Fonden Kulturfabrikken, where Skall Studio's autumn/winter '24 show is to take place. I settle down into one of the chairs arranged to form the front row, which is crafted by the Danish designer Borge Mogensen. To my right is Martina, and to the left, Rebecka. I’m reflecting, wondering how I ended up in this situation – a surreal feeling envelopes me. The seats opposite us are occupied by individuals who each exhibit a unique sense of style, each one more dressed up than the other; it's like watching a moving artwork.

Martina guides me through the room, pointing out specific individuals, including other editors and stylists. “The one with the blue hat, she is from Vogue China,” she says. Complementing her blue hat, the fellow editor wears a checkered shirt, a tie, golden heels and a matching bag – finished with a large fluffy fur in her lap. Martina then glances to the left, leaning closer to me. “There's Alana Hadid,” she says. The model, creative director and activist Alana also occupies the front row, wearing black leather shoes, crisp white socks, a sweater from Skall Studio, and a padded black oversized coat.

"We're going backstage later to film," Martina tells Zamzam, Vogue Scandinavia's social media manager, who has joined our conversation for a while. "Do you know Julie and Marie Skall [Skall Studio's co-founders]?” I ask Martina. “Yes, I do,” Martina replies. She turns to Rebecka.

“I think I know most designers,” she says with a smile, and Rebecka nods in agreement. I greet another member of the Vogue Scandinavia team, this time Allyson Shiffman, print editor. Just that morning, Allyson had walked the runway for the first time at the OpéraSport show. Now, she is wearing jeans and a cable-knit sweater (both in off-white from Skall Studios), complemented by a brown checkered coat, boots and a scarf.

The music starts, and the room falls silent. People settle in, expectantly awaiting the show to begin. Sunbeams filter through the window, creating patterns on the industrial floor just as the first model steps forward draped in a grey blazer. Many people, including myself, raise their phones to document the new collection and capture the essence of the show. When the fifth model comes into view, a thought crosses my mind: 'enjoy this moment, embrace the experience'. I lower my phone, draw a deep breath, and feel a smile naturally spreading across my face. The Skall sisters enter the runway hand in hand, applause breaks out; the show is over.

Afterwards, the atmosphere backstage feels somewhat more relaxed, accompanied by a collective sense of relief and numerous smiles. Models exchange hugs and congratulations for a job well done, while others attentively examine the embroidery on one of the garments. A bit further away, Martina interviews the Skall sisters. Once again, I try to simply savour the moment.

We step out from the venue into a sunny yet windy day. Back in the car, our conversation continues as we discuss the details of the show. Despite our brief time together, I feel a comfort in their presence, allowing me to be myself. That feeling is perhaps the most beautiful thing one can give to someone you've never met before?

The schedule of an editor during Copenhagen Fashion Week is packed – Martina is in such a time crunch that she has to change into her next outfit for The Garment show in the car. They drop me off at Sankt Annae Square; we say goodbye, and I express my gratitude for the insight into the fashion industry and the opportunity to meet Vogue Scandinavia.

Skall studios AW24

Skall, meaning seashell in Danish. The designers Julie and Marie's forebears hail from Northern Jutland. In their time, they gathered seashells on the beach and sold them to earn a livelihood, this is how the family name was established.

This brand is closely connected to nature in many ways. Their styles come in natural materials and the colors are in earthy tones.

Skall Studio strives to make a difference in the fashion industry and sustainability has been a core value since the start.

The styles are made to last long, fur and leather free and undyed.

Also, they offer free lifelong repair.

The garments are made from natural material such as Danish wool, RWS certified wool, organic cotton, linen from regenerative agriculture in Europe and recycled cotton, wool, and cashmere.

I really like the styles, Scandinavian, simple and relaxed. My favorite looks include the gray cable-knit vest and denim-on-denim paired with a stylish long coat.

Photo: Copenhagen AW 2024, Vouge Runway app.

For me It's always inspiring to understand the thoughts behind the collection. The Collection AW 24 was inspired by female writers in New York from the 60's, among others Sylvia Plath and Joan Didion. This was particularly evident when some models carried newspapers and college blocks.

I could imagine how the writers navigated through the crowded streets in sharp coats, letting each step inspire new thoughts. The aroma of fresh coffee from a corner cafe, and then pausing to make notes in their notebooks for their next articles.

Before the show I got a little present from Skall Studios. It was the Amy Blouse in off white, 100% GOTS certified and organic merino wool. To keep my hands warm I also got Skall Mittens made from 97% recycled cashmere and 3% recycled wool.

Greetings from Skall Sisters before the show.

Copenhagen street style

The fashion week street styles in Copenhagen is something else. People really express their style. I went outside the places where the shows were happening just to get inspired by what people was wearing on the streets, and I wasn't the only one.

I spotted a lot of micro shorts, sheer fabrics, slim fit, and chunky jewelry. I believe we will see all of this trending in the future styled in different ways. Noticed, copenhagen is always about colorful details.

An exibition by GANNI

From outside, it looks like an old church, which it is. However, inside, it is transformed into a unique modern art gallery. During fashion week, there was an exhibition by GANNI.

The first thing that caught my eye was a large cage hanging from the roof. Stepping forward, I realized it was clothes from the GANNI brand. This sculpture, titled 'Trapped,' was created by Azerbaijani-Iranian visual artist Sahar Jamili and visualizes overconsumption in the fashion industry. Storytelling is one of Sahras main tools during the creative process to evoke thoughts.

Danish designer Nicklas Skovgaard, another selected emerging talent for the exhibition, presented the 'Lecia Coat' with leggings and a hat, using Fabrics of The Future - Savian by BioFluff, Oleatex bio-based alternative, and CIRCULOSE®.

A notable section of the exhibition focused on the 'Fabric of the Future' initiative, striving to research, develop, and invest in innovative materials as alternatives to virgin materials. One highlighted material is CIRCULOSE®, a "circular cellulose" made from 100% recycled textiles, such as worn-out cotton jeans, created by Renewcell. Founded in 2012 in Stockholm, Sweden, Renewcell is a sustainable tech brand with a vision to make fashion circular. Other interesting materials included Savian by BioFluff, a next-generation faux fur, and Oleatex, produced using waste streams from olive oil production.

In the front sculpture titeled ‘Trapped’ by Sahar Jamili. In the back, ‘GreenFutureXSculpture’ made from GANNI leftover fabrics by Jens Ole Árnason.

9 secondhand and vintage shops in Copenhagen

The world is on fire but we are still buying shoes

This black little pocket-sized book is written by Alec Leach, author and strategist in the sustainable fashion space.

It's supposed to give you a better relationship to fashion which it does, at least it forces you to reflect.

Alec was a moderator of small talks big conversations with the topic menswear in the nordics during fashion week. I recognised him since I bought his book some years ago. Check him out.

At the event ‘Small talks big conversatoin- menswre in the nordics at Polstar.

Parts of the writer's life

Since I like to receive tips, I want to share three more from the stay. It's somewhat obligatory to eat smørrebrød when in Copenhagen or “to røde og en grøn”. This time we chose Hallernes smørrebrød at Torvehallerna, 10 out of 10 in taste and appearance.

For dinner I would really recommend Cofoco located in Vesterbro. Affordable for such well-prepared and good food.

Last but not least, some tips from my coffee enthusiast partner, he suggests April Coffee, La Cabra Roastery and Coffee Collective.

My creative space

Do you remeber Alva Nyblom, journalist within fashion who was a guest writer in Edition 13. She asked if I could write a text for Magasin Asterisk, which she runs together with Filippa Trajkovski, photographer and designer. Of course, I said yes. Read my thought about having a creative space. SKAPANDETS VIRVEL – betydelsen av att ha ett kreativt utrymme

Let's hang out.

Would you like to be featured in Nunc Publication? Connect with us on Instagram.

@nuncpublication